Rog Tallbloke
New Member
Thanks Archie, problem solved. The camera had been left in some special mode where it takes 5 images in quick succession. I restored shooting defaults and the flash mode button now works fine. Looks like I'd better RTFM. 
Rog Tallbloke":2w0ibuy8 said:Hi Tom,
I can't get the flash mode button to work on the otherwise immaculate GXR I just collected. :roll:
This comes back to the question I raised above: What is the biggest sensor with Image stabilisation Ricoh can cram into a GXR module?
I'm guessing a sensor around the size of the one in the Nikon V1 would be around the limit. That size would work well with a 28, 35 or 40mm equiv pancake prime. For the Ricoh long zoom lens, the Pentax Q sensor is the same size as the existing unit, but seems to have very good high iso performance in comparison.
Rog Tallbloke":1b1bb2zb said:Tom, thanks for your insight. The big advantages I see in additional modules using a sensor around the size of the Nikon V1/J1 units are:
1) Sensor shift IS can be fitted in the confines of the module dimensions. This should give a couple of stops advantage which will minimise the difference in resolution between the smaller sensor and APS-C, particularly in more difficult light. Great for cloudy British and Canuck skies.
2) Shorter distance between lens and sensor - more compact mount unit for classic lenses. Also great for handling/discrete appearance.
Meantime, I will settle for the A12 50 as soon as I have raised the cash.![]()
paulgiguere":26aqqe5d said:I agree that an A16 35mm equivalent lens module would be nice to see in the pipeline. Would be even better if Ricoh took a page from Leica and made this module a B&W only module.
Paul
Tom Caldwell":3ldqdqtd said:Duane Pandorf":3ldqdqtd said:He Rog,
This is the product I used this past week with a carabiner attached to my left shoulder harness:
http://optechusa.com/system-connectors/uni-loop.html
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I also kept a dry bag in my pocket in case it rained I could quickly disconnect and get my camera out of the water. When I took my pack off I could easily disconnect the camera first so that I didn't smash it while removing my pack.
Of course one connector went through the left camera lug the other through the carabiner.
Thanks for the tip Duane, useful product.
Tom
Rog Tallbloke":3fqvd4xa said:Thanks Archie, problem solved. The camera had been left in some special mode where it takes 5 images in quick succession. I restored shooting defaults and the flash mode button now works fine. Looks like I'd better RTFM.![]()
Duane Pandorf":3m8l948y said:Another of my complaints with all electronics today is you have to almost be an engineer to understand what's in the manual. Nothing is simple anymore.
ayewing":2v46yp0v said:Duane Pandorf":2v46yp0v said:Another of my complaints with all electronics today is you have to almost be an engineer to understand what's in the manual. Nothing is simple anymore.
One of the problems is that you have to read at least two manuals - one for the camera body and the other for the lens unit. The manuals are very terse and do not explain much. I found that I could understand the manuals only after a bit of hands on use of the camera. I am sure there is a lot of clever stuff I have yet to explore.
Tom Caldwell":2lrxypjo said:Guys,
I think that you can be as happy as Larry with the GXR and A12 mount by simply using A and M mode on the camera and the aperture dial and focus on the lens with little recourse beyond the EV rocker, Direct Screen, and Adj lever. The front dial can cycle shutter speed and the jog lever change ISO setting instantly. Set to S and you can have the camera try to compensate thinks by adjusting ISO for you. This makes it very much like an "olden days" RF camera and you hardly need to tackle the menu system.
However P mode with a lens-module does a good job as well.
Tom
alorenzen":2cb3j0p0 said:Tom Caldwell":2cb3j0p0 said:Guys,
I think that you can be as happy as Larry with the GXR and A12 mount by simply using A and M mode on the camera and the aperture dial and focus on the lens with little recourse beyond the EV rocker, Direct Screen, and Adj lever. The front dial can cycle shutter speed and the jog lever change ISO setting instantly. Set to S and you can have the camera try to compensate thinks by adjusting ISO for you. This makes it very much like an "olden days" RF camera and you hardly need to tackle the menu system.
However P mode with a lens-module does a good job as well.
Tom
I would a bit of disagree. In general your are right and modes working fine. But I ran often into the problem it stores the last setting. So in case I changed something It often happens I missed it and took a shoot with wrong setting. For that reason I lost a lot of unique moments/pictures.
For the personal setting (My1-3) works best. Switching between and Power On/Off will cause these setting. Everything resetted to what has been configured. Currently I work with 2 settings for my A12 50 (one with digital zoom) and one for my P10.
Duane Pandorf":2oo16mr9 said:The above lens would cover my travel kit perfectly:
? Voigt 24mm f2 (35mm)
Leica 35mm f2 (50mm)
Leica 50mm f2 (75mm)
AlbertTRAL":ms6xe2hi said:Duane Pandorf":ms6xe2hi said:The above lens would cover my travel kit perfectly:
? Voigt 24mm f2 (35mm)
Leica 35mm f2 (50mm)
Leica 50mm f2 (75mm)
Duane, this means that, after your tests, the planar has not convinced you? What do you see, think or feel that the cron does better than the planar?
Rog Tallbloke":7lzuf8mn said:If anyone from Ricoh/Pentax is reading this thread, I have a request.
Please can you build us some new lensor's built around an image stabilised 1" BSI-CMOS at around 12 megapixels.
A 24-72mm 'GX300' Zoom with optional 18mm wide and 2x telephoto
A 35mm prime which can also use the optional lenses
A PK mount unit so we can use nice old Ricoh and Pentax SLR lenses
I believe this mount unit would be a nice way to unite the Pentax and Ricoh owners around the newly merged company.
Thank you very much.![]()