Street settings and setting ideas

[LFST]

I just bought my new GR and I would appreciate street settings and settings ideas

Thank you very much

Luis

 

[streetshooter]

Luis,
I just spent 20 min writing a reply and my iPhone crashed.
I'll do It again later, I'm on the street at the moment.
Don

 

[LFST]

Waiting for reply

Thanks

Luis

 

[streetshooter]

Luis,
Not sure what you do on the street or how you work so I'll just post my stuff. Basically it applies to most shooters anyway.

1 press snap on.
I have Fn 1 set to Snap/AF. There used to be a box on the GRD4 for guys that get immersed in their work like me on snap mode but now you get this distance scale and no box. If you see the scale, you're in Snap. Do not trust the scale. It is not accurate. It is not good enough to depend on.

Fn 2 is set to Snap Focus Distance. If you press Fn 2 then you can choose your snap distance.
I keep Neutral Density Filter on...Wouter's advice and logical. Keep it set to Auto Mode.
There's a cool button on the Left side of the GR that is programmable. At first I set it to do ISO but that can be set to toggle more efficiently on the jog dial. You just flip it and the ISO changes.

I like TAv mode because I get to choose Aperture and Shutter Speed.

Now some things..........
TAv mode lets you use EV on the rocker switch...(Zoom). If you use it, you must hit OK in order to save the setting and get back to work. This sucks big time! The OK is an extra not needed step.
GR chooses ISO in TVa mode.

Aesthetically the camera makes great files at up ISO 4000. Even above is ok for B&W.
On the GRD4 I used M mode and Auto ISO. So if I wanted to get reall gritty, I'd use a very strong exposure forcing the camera to shoot the ISO up high and thus make that incredible GRD GRIT! The GR doesn't do that because it's soooo clean.

Av mode is cool also. You can select your aperture, ISO and EV and the camera sets the shutter speed.
I shoot RAW only and have the Effect on Monochrome and that gives me a b&w screen but no jpeg. Big plus over the Momma Camera.

The Jog switch is good for things you want fast access to.
I have Dynamic Range (off)
Aspect Ratio (3:2 native)
Quality (Raw)
Focusing (af/snap)
Effect (all those cool things I never use)

The AF is great and even in low light is perky......

The files in LightRoom process easy but are very clean and sharp. Any Grain, Noise Reduction or Sharpening must be applied very carefully.
The camera is a gas to work with even tho it is too good for what I want. In time I'll get the files to work better.

Anything else, just let me know...if you have issues....before you throw it....Skype me and we'll work it out.

The only thing Ricoh messed up is the Strap Lugs situation.
I post this for years all over and people think I'm nuts.
Well, I like to go from Wrist to neck in a few seconds and this camera can't do that.

Good luck.....don

 

[LFST]

Don ,

Thanks for your advise.

Jog switch could not find Quality.

M mode do let me change to auto iso .

I would like to take some color pictures to nice jacaranda trees we found in Lisbon in this time of the year, what settings do you recommend as an expert.

Do you protect the lens and the camera with a case ?

It was nice to change ideas in the forum for the settings

Regards

Luis

 

[streetshooter]

Luis,
If your shooting Color Tourist stuff....the most important by the way....keep ISO to 800 or 1000.
The problem with M mode, my favorite on every other camera....is that you cant set Auto ISO.The idea of course being that you can set speed/f/stop and the camera sets ISO when set to auto. This way you can be assured that even if you are wrong in your exposure calculations, the camera fixes it by using Auto ISO.

I must have A-ISO because I like to force the camera to create the grit or clean image by setting my exposure.
Watch the snap distances on the scale and try using DOF Master. They are closer but not exact either. The GR is .020 COC.
Later....don

 

[LFST]

Don,

In M mode I can not set Iso to Auto .Only accept 100 and above .

Thanks again .

Luis

 

[streetshooter]

Luis ..that's an issue with Mode.

I think if we took M & TAv we would see them together to be perfect. Ricoh obviously got multiple personality disorder and split the two modes apart.

I like the GR series too much to abandon it. Ill tell ya this much.... I've had about enuff of Pentax influence on the GR... That where that TAv thing comes from.

 

[darkspark]

Don,

In M mode I can not set Iso to Auto .Only accept 100 and above .

Thanks again .

Luis

Yea, while most cameras just have M (manual) mode with the ability to set Auto-ISO... Pentax/Ricoh calls that mode "TAv" instead (manual T, manual A, auto ISO)

 

[streetshooter]

Don,

In M mode I can not set Iso to Auto .Only accept 100 and above .

Thanks again .

Luis

Yea, while most cameras just have M (manual) mode with the ability to set Auto-ISO... Pentax/Ricoh calls that mode "TAv" instead (manual T, manual A, auto ISO)

Yeah and you get EV in TAv but not in M.
I always used M in all cameras. Now the Pentax thing infected the GR and we get different options that do almost the same things.
I'd like to be able to adjust the Auto Limits in TAv but I'm getting used to it the way it is.

My GRD4 is still #1 in my book.

 

[wimvangrinsven]

...
I must have A-ISO because I like to force the camera to create the grit or clean image by setting my exposure.
..

Don,
If I understand you correctly, you want to set Time and Aperture and ISO to Auto (with a limit). Do you want Tanya to start underexposing when she reaches her limit(s)?

In TAv I can set Time, Aperture, ISO to Auto and use the EV+/- to control the ISO. Or I can change Time or Aperture.

Wim

 

[streetshooter]

...
I must have A-ISO because I like to force the camera to create the grit or clean image by setting my exposure.
..

Don,
If I understand you correctly, you want to set Time and Aperture and ISO to Auto (with a limit). Do you want Tanya to start underexposing when she reaches her limit(s)?

In TAv I can set Time, Aperture, ISO to Auto and use the EV+/- to control the ISO. Or I can change Time or Aperture.

Wim

Wim,
When she reaches her limit, she should start to drop speed to make the exposure.
The Fuji X20 and many others do this. The Nikon Coolpix A does it very well.
All that has to happen is to be able to set an ISO limit in TAv and minimum speed.

Tanya takes after my wife Tanya, to do what she wants, there is no limit.

 

[400tx]

How do you guys use manual mode on the street?

Two issues:
•Seeing the meter is tough.
•There aren't enough dials for aperture, shutter, and ISO.

Any happy manual GR shooters?

 

[Tom Caldwell]

Don,

In M mode I can not set Iso to Auto .Only accept 100 and above .

Thanks again .

Luis

Yea, while most cameras just have M (manual) mode with the ability to set Auto-ISO... Pentax/Ricoh calls that mode "TAv" instead (manual T, manual A, auto ISO)

Whilst I cannot see any reason why Ricoh could not use P,A,S,SA,M rather than the historically convoluted counter-intuitive Pentax P,Av,Tv,TAv,M nomenclature I can see some sense in not having the EV contol adjustment on M mode. Effectively this is covered by TAv and the user on M is supposd to be getting "full control" over the aperture and shutter and this allow dark/overexposed at whatever combination used to be adjusted to correct exposure by the One Press M Mode preference set in Key Custom Options menu. Either aperture or shutter priority or program. This takes over the function of the rocker lever - one tip of the lever and the camera re-adjusts if required and varies the user-set adjustment to make it work. A sort of best of all worlds compromise.

When Don wrote about the adjustment of snap focus distance he might not have been aware that the GR had reverted to the method of the GRDIII - press-hold up-arrow and rotate the front dial and the snap focus distance changes - shown on the upper right part of the lcd. The GRDIV dropped this feature and replaced it with the very interesting Function Button Pairing. Something not much commented upon but I have played with it on that camera. Could be made quite useful and is a quick method of giving the GRDIV an effective eight soft function keys paired together between two physical function buttons.

Unfortunately/fortunately pleasing one section of users might not please others quite as well. There were other quick methods of using snap focus distance adjust on the GRDIV. For example - adding the Snap focus distance to Fn1 of a function pair could allow Fn1 be used to instantly bring up the snap focus distance scale which would continue to be shown between shots as an overlay until shut down. Therefore we lose the configurable Function Button Pairing on the GR for the slight convenience of adjusting snap focus distance on the fly.

Not that I wish the very convenient snap focus adjustment to be lost but I do feel that the Function Button Pairing was a great idea unexplored, now lost.

Hopefully Ricoh can find an alternative key combination to bring it to the GR in a firmware update as I am sure that the code is available, even if not linked to an invoking routine.

Tom

 

[streetshooter]

Tom, I use the GR the same as the GRD4.
Fn 1 to AF/SNAP
Fn 2 TO SNAP DISTANCE. When you hit Fn 2, you can use the front dial, rocker or command dial to change the distance. Here in Philly, we hit the Fn 2 button to open Snap with the thumb and then....we use our first finger on the front dial to adjust the distance. It might seem a little strange but we are happy to be different....

The same goes for the EV in TVa mode. The same controlls will adjust EV. You can release with the EV still open! I was told different at the place that you hang at...you know, the mush pit.
Anyway, I wonder if you've made any headway on the ISO limit thing. I think yoo're closer than anyone else to a solution. I'd just rather read it here then there....
don

ps.... I wonder if Ricoh could make the Effect Button able to be programmed to each mode. I have it set to ISO which is great in A but not for TVa. Surely this was an oversite.....

 

[Tom Caldwell]

How do you guys use manual mode on the street?

Two issues:
•Seeing the meter is tough.
•There aren't enough dials for aperture, shutter, and ISO.

Any happy manual GR shooters?

Despite having (a rather convoluted to use but can be effective) focus peakng the GR is far from a useful MF camera. Most users use snap focus and the up-arrow held plus wheel adjustment can be used to quickly vary fixed distance shooting. Another tip is to set Fn2 to AF/MF toggle. This effectively gives focus lock. Pre-find the focus distance and toggle to MF to fix it - then MF could be fine tuned if necessary.

The rear button can be configured for continuous focus as well. Plenty of choices only MF itself is weak.

Focus peaking seems best in my own opinion as magnified where a very precise point of focus is necessary and is sight driven with the focus peaking highlight to assist. This may be worth persevering with if absolute precision over quick-capture is necessary.

However I think the whole manual focus issue by wheel is a bit lacking. The maximum aperture limits the extent to which out of focus areas can be creatively used. The wheel still sits in a chamfered area of the front plate unlike the GXR where it is raised for easy use from a flat plate and much more encouraging to use with full flat of forefinger.

Furthermore the depth of the wheel from the front edge is about 1.5 millimetres deeper than on the GRDIV and earlier models. Even my relatively small fingers are forced to use the edge of the notchy action wheel rather than on the flats. Those with larger fingers must find it more difficult.

The front wheel design in my opinion is one of the few physical design problems on the GR. It should be raised over a flat base, slightly wider and much less notchy in action. I think a better action front wheel with better finger access would be a pleasure to use for all its functions and might make manual focus more useful. Even if manual focus was transferred to a more popular location such as a well damped ring around the lens the wheel as it is presently designed is not good enough and below par compared to the rest of this very classy design.

Tom

 

[Tom Caldwell]

Tom, I use the GR the same as the GRD4.
Fn 1 to AF/SNAP
Fn 2 TO SNAP DISTANCE. When you hit Fn 2, you can use the front dial, rocker or command dial to change the distance. Here in Philly, we hit the Fn 2 button to open Snap with the thumb and then....we use our first finger on the front dial to adjust the distance. It might seem a little strange but we are happy to be different....

The same goes for the EV in TVa mode. The same controlls will adjust EV. You can release with the EV still open! I was told different at the place that you hang at...you know, the mush pit.
Anyway, I wonder if you've made any headway on the ISO limit thing. I think yoo're closer than anyone else to a solution. I'd just rather read it here then there....
don

ps.... I wonder if Ricoh could make the Effect Button able to be programmed to each mode. I have it set to ISO which is great in A but not for TVa. Surely this was an oversite.....

Don

Ahah! an ally (grin) I had thought the GRDIV abandonment of the up-arrow + wheel to change snap focus had been a deal killer on the GRDIV that is why they brought it back on the GR. I don't mind it but my prospective captures don't really demand snap-focus speed here in rural Australia. But I really like that feature being there just in case. However there are so many personalised ways to set up a GR/GRD that there is bound to be one that suits everyone. Your method is eminently workable.

I have temporarily given up on the runaway ISO in TAv mode there is no doubt flicking on Dynamic Range Correction does limit the amount of run-away - especially if you stick to 1 EV ISO steps. But it is a kludge. I think that the manual says one thing and the camera does another as far as the ISO behaviour in TAv works. Therefore to me it is either manual wrong or camera wrong and therefore a bug. I have passed it up the chain of command to Rioch to look at - maybe they can do something in the next firmware? In any case a third solution might be better - just to make use of user-nominated maximum ISO i Auto-Hi rather than ISO 800 maximum under Auto as the manual nominates. Anyway it is not a real bother if the photographer read his dials and adjusts where necessary.

Dynamic Range Compensation seems to be one of those features that has no downsides other than limiting ISO and perhpas slowing captures. I am a bit foggy on this I prefer to keep my camera effect free except B&W variations. Are you able to explain the advantages/disadvantages of having Dynamic Range Compensation on permanently? On the face of it I find it hard to understand why it needs to be off - other than it is still a camera manipulated "effect' of a sort. Meanwhile I have mine set "off" anyway.

I have taken your tip on ND Auto and On. As not having a great deal of use for snap focus or timer I have chosen to set my Fn2 to AF/MF toggle. Great to be able to do your own thing with these cameras.

I think you have the GDRIV. I only came to it later and was quite intrigued with the Fn Button Pairing. Needs a bit of thought. But, for instance if your life was not constant use of snap focus shooting you could have that set as you have on one function button pair and set other fnction button pairs to different uses. On the GRDIV the up-arrow wheel combination shows the function butotn pairs on the lcd and you can quickly scroll to the set you need presently. The pair actually in use is displayed at start up or on pressing the up arrow to jog the reluctant memory.

Ricoh as usual came out of the box with the function button pairs "empty" and is was up to the user to devise and set them to something useful. I imagine that the principle of user laziness meant that this function was rarely used and therefore never talked about. I cretainly had never noted it mentioned before I discovered it on buying my GRDIV only a couple of months ago.

Tom

 

[wimvangrinsven]

My settings:

Fn1: AF/Snap
Fn2: snapfocus distance
Effectbutton: 35mm crop
MY1: iso 800, snap, snapfocus 5m, f/5.6 (for hyperfocal)
MY2: iso 800, snap, snapfocus 2m, f/4 (for zonefocus)

Wim

 

[streetshooter]

My settings:

Fn1: AF/Snap
Fn2: snapfocus distance
Effectbutton: 35mm crop
MY1: iso 800, snap, snapfocus 5m, f/5.6 (for hyperfocal)
MY2: iso 800, snap, snapfocus 2m, f/4 (for zonefocus)

Wim

Wim, are you using my camera? Sure seems familiar to me...

 

[jsjxyz]

I used to use GRD 2, moving to GR one thing that I really adore is the AF button.

I love to use AF to get early distance measurement then adjust accordingly using the up-wheels button. The way to do it is by set to MF, set AEL/AFL to AEL and always lock mode ON. C-AF set to off.

The way to do it is by take measurement with AF button set to AEL, then move the switch to C-AF to take the spot AF.

With shooting mode set to Av, i can manage the hyperfocal distance by simultaneosely using wheel (for aperture) and combination of up arrow-wheel (focus).

And since I am doing street shooting set ISO hi to 1/60 ISO 6400 max.

Thus my setting are:
Effect: BW
ISO: High, 1/60, 6400
Fn 1: JPEG+RAW (when i need color backup)
Fn 2: AF/MF
Effect: auto bracket, which I am using for effect bracket, mode 1 bw, mode 2 bw high contrast.
Alternate
Effect: 35mm crop

Full press snap set to ON and High ISO.

@jsjxyz
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