New owner

[Coops langbo]

I’m getting a lot of over exposure flare shooting outdoors even to day with heavy cloud . Shifting aperture and exposure balance around to reduce then getting under exposure in the foreground and definitely shady spots .
I’m sure there’s lots of tips , like get better , but some simple real world advice would be most helpful

 

[Rollo]

Which model are you using?

First thing is to take a flashlight and shine it obliquely at the surface of your lens, any film or heavy dust can create flare. If so, clean with a fresh microfiber cloth or lens cleaning paper (not tissue) with some lens cleaner applied.

I find the 28mm lens to be quite flare-resistant, but even so, shooting at, or very close to a light source (like the sun - even behind clouds) will induce some flare. Send a couple of samples...

 

[Coops langbo]

I’m getting a lot of over exposure flare shooting outdoors even to day with heavy cloud . Shifting aperture and exposure balance around to reduce then getting under exposure in the foreground and definitely shady spots .
I’m sure there’s lots of tips , like get better , but some simple real world advice would be most helpful

Which model are you using?

First thing is to take a flashlight and shine it obliquely at the surface of your lens, any film or heavy dust can create flare. If so, clean with a fresh microfiber cloth or lens cleaning paper (not tissue) with some lens cleaner applied.

I find the 28mm lens to be quite flare-resistant, but even so, shooting at, or very close to a light source (like the sun - even behind clouds) will induce some flare. Send a couple of samples...

Thanks for your reply , I’m using the GR 4 . I have cleaned the lens . I have also bought the Freeform lens hood which should help me . I have attached a couple of shots from the day that i referred to,

• RICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD. RICOH GR IV
• ƒ/3.2
• 18mm
• 1/2500s
• ISO 200

• RICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD. RICOH GR IV
• ƒ/7.1
• 18mm
• 1/3200s
• ISO 125

this is before i got the lens hood.

 

[Rollo]

Ok, I am not seeing any lens flare - that is not the issue. The camera's lightmeter meter is just a device trying to find the median exposure for a given situation. In the shots you attached the primary subjects are in shadow - the overall contrast is too high for the camera to expose both correctly. Remember that even the best sensors only have about 3/5ths the contrast range of the human eye. In these images the camera is doing a good job not overexposing the sky. What you need to do is use exposure compensation to shoot several images: e.v. 0, e.v. + 0.7 and e.v. + 1.3. You will see in the shots with + compensation two shots that the foreground will have more exposure, but the sky may be overexposed. I think this "bracketing" technique is good to use overall - and you can set the camera to do it automatically. Another thing you can do is set the camera's meter to a limited or spot metering function. This will allow you to touch the screen and choose what area you want to meter correctly for. So if you set the indicator on the dog it will expose correctly for that area.
Digital images often need some adjustment after you take them. Whatever software you use will allow you to lighten shadow areas and/or darken overexposed areas. Note: if you shoot in raw these corrections will be more effective and less likely to produce artifacts. In this way you will be able to "add" 2-4 more stops of contrast range to the photos. Since there is significant detail even in the shadows of these image you should be able to get a pleasing result.

 

[Coops langbo]

Thanks very much for your thoughtful and informative reply Rollo . I’m very appreciative and will do as you suggest . With thanks