GR User Forum
The spot for all Ricoh GR camera users
Register for free, meet other Ricoh GR users, share your images, help others, have fun!
Tell your friends about us!It's a new record!
- Thread starter Marana
- Start date
Wiener
Active Member
Marana,
would you post a few typical examples of what you find is wrong with your 'in car' shots?
I have often tried this (though mostly hand-held) and usualy have good enough images when considering all the constraints of how they were taken...
Perhaps it is not the speed of the CX1 but something else?
Andy
would you post a few typical examples of what you find is wrong with your 'in car' shots?
I have often tried this (though mostly hand-held) and usualy have good enough images when considering all the constraints of how they were taken...
Perhaps it is not the speed of the CX1 but something else?
Andy
Yes, the CX1 is mounted to a Manfrotto 709B Digi Table Top Tripod with Ball Head, and I have image stabilization turned off, in order to save power.
Unfortunately, I've aleady deleted the photos from yesterday. I'll go back and see if there are other days I can show examples from... Okay, here's an older night time set. The daytime ones from yesterday I had set at snap focus and 400 ISO, I know that the daytime ones turn out a little better, but these are also indicative of what's been going on. I've posted them at http://www.flickr.com/photos/marana/set ... 350100032/ , so you can see about a dozen downsized pics, in case I can't post that many on this board in one message.
Unfortunately, I've aleady deleted the photos from yesterday. I'll go back and see if there are other days I can show examples from... Okay, here's an older night time set. The daytime ones from yesterday I had set at snap focus and 400 ISO, I know that the daytime ones turn out a little better, but these are also indicative of what's been going on. I've posted them at http://www.flickr.com/photos/marana/set ... 350100032/ , so you can see about a dozen downsized pics, in case I can't post that many on this board in one message.
Wiener
Active Member
Hi Marana,
here is a random selection from my over-loaded hard drive of the type of thing you are experimenting with.
I am not sure if these are of any help, but it seems that once my 'shutter' speed drops down to 1/2 sec and below, the image becomes unsharp as seen in your examples.
However, I do not get the blue-blocky skies (noise?) and this may be a CX1 quirk..
I should add that mine are JPEG, straight from the camera with the EXIF info there for your interest. The focus was also set to infinity.
Mine are all taken 'hand-held' and I suspect that this also provides 'shock-absorbtion' in a way in which your tripod cannot?
Sorry I cannot give you more hope, nor be of more help... :?
Andy
PS please don't take the 'Vienna from the air' picture to seriously!
here is a random selection from my over-loaded hard drive of the type of thing you are experimenting with.
I am not sure if these are of any help, but it seems that once my 'shutter' speed drops down to 1/2 sec and below, the image becomes unsharp as seen in your examples.
However, I do not get the blue-blocky skies (noise?) and this may be a CX1 quirk..
I should add that mine are JPEG, straight from the camera with the EXIF info there for your interest. The focus was also set to infinity.
Mine are all taken 'hand-held' and I suspect that this also provides 'shock-absorbtion' in a way in which your tripod cannot?
Sorry I cannot give you more hope, nor be of more help... :?
Andy
PS please don't take the 'Vienna from the air' picture to seriously!
waloszek
Member
Hi Marana,
I never tried that because I presumed that the results would be similar to yours. As Wiener's examples demonstrate, you need shorter shutter speeds in order to get sharper images, although in some cases, the results may look nice with longer shutter speeds. For example, when we passed a tunnel in the Alsace a couple of years ago with our house boat, I had a couple of really nice shots (I'll have to find them...).
I my opinion, there are only two things that you can experiment with: increasing ISO (but I would not go higher than 800) and adjust exposure (between 0 and -3). As there are no manual settings on the CX1, you cannot fix shutter speed to 1/15, 1/30, 1/60 sec or even shorter...
Best regards,
Gerd
I never tried that because I presumed that the results would be similar to yours. As Wiener's examples demonstrate, you need shorter shutter speeds in order to get sharper images, although in some cases, the results may look nice with longer shutter speeds. For example, when we passed a tunnel in the Alsace a couple of years ago with our house boat, I had a couple of really nice shots (I'll have to find them...).
I my opinion, there are only two things that you can experiment with: increasing ISO (but I would not go higher than 800) and adjust exposure (between 0 and -3). As there are no manual settings on the CX1, you cannot fix shutter speed to 1/15, 1/30, 1/60 sec or even shorter...
Best regards,
Gerd
Wiener
Active Member
I have just remembered that I would have the 'anti-shake' turned on...after all even on a tripod it is still in constant motion?Wiener":3710q48e said:
Something is telling me that even if your night shots are not working, your daylight shots certainly should...perhaps you could try a few hand-held when someone else is driving (of course! :? )
Good luck, and keep smiling!
Andy
silverbullet
Member
The steering wheel is on the wrong side...... :mrgreen:
To try this kind of dynamic shots it's important to have as much light as possible. Otherwise the camera creates a very slow shutterspeed which will give blur from the picture content and from the camera shake itself.
Here an example with ideal light and conditions.
In South Tyrol hillclimbing with cars. I was running to the sharp corner and my friend took already the straight part. Camera on autofocus, continous shuttermode and luck, but I have another pic with a different car. The camera position was easy as I had an open top with my Morgan, so no window gave me restrictions by narrow angle etc.:
To try this kind of dynamic shots it's important to have as much light as possible. Otherwise the camera creates a very slow shutterspeed which will give blur from the picture content and from the camera shake itself.
Here an example with ideal light and conditions.
In South Tyrol hillclimbing with cars. I was running to the sharp corner and my friend took already the straight part. Camera on autofocus, continous shuttermode and luck, but I have another pic with a different car. The camera position was easy as I had an open top with my Morgan, so no window gave me restrictions by narrow angle etc.:
Thanks for all the tips, replies. I will try leaving anti shake turned ON, and doing it on a more sunny day. Also, from reading all your posts, I just realized that we had the windows tinted in the vehicle. So, although the camera compensates for the COLOR of the tint (a light brownish grey), of course it would cut down on the light! So, unless I cut a hole in the tint right in front of the camera, I may not realize the effects I want. Will try using interval timer mode on sunny day from car without window tint just to be sure!
I never thought of about shooting with the "interval mode" while driving. Thank you Sandy for your post!
Tried it with the GX200. I used MF and focused the camera to about 3m. 15 sec interval. ISO 200 to get a fast shutter speed. I don't know why' but I had to dial a strong negative exposure compaction (-1.0 to -1.3). It was raining, so drops on the windshield. Nothing interesting happened during the short drive, but it was fun .
Tried it with the GX200. I used MF and focused the camera to about 3m. 15 sec interval. ISO 200 to get a fast shutter speed. I don't know why' but I had to dial a strong negative exposure compaction (-1.0 to -1.3). It was raining, so drops on the windshield. Nothing interesting happened during the short drive, but it was fun
.