Having a hard time nailing the focus, problem with camera?

[Ranma13]

Hey everyone, I've had the GXR for a while now with the Voigtlander 35/1.2 II, but I've had a pretty consistent problem with my setup. Out of all the pictures I've taken with it, nearly half of them have the focus set slightly off from the intended target, despite me verifying and re-verifying with mode 2 that I indeed have the correct object in focus. I'd chalk this up to an error on my part, except it happens often enough that I question whether if it's really me or not. For example, I went to E3 last week, and every picture I took of people, I made sure that I had the eyes in focus, but almost all the images ended up out of focus. I know the 35/1.2 is soft at f1.2, so I shot most of the shots at f1.4 or f2.0.

With an AF camera, I know that I can chalk this up to AF calibration alignment issues, but with a manual focus lens using focus peaking, is it even possible for the focus to be out of alignment? Your thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[streetshooter]

It is possible to have a focus problem with manual lenses. There's a famous German Company that has these issues since the start of Digital but it was never really noticed on film.
Your lens could be back or front focusing. It's a slight adjustment. There's a fella named Brian Sweeney that does adjustments as good as any one.
You can find him on a few forums...
There's a woman named Sherry Krauter that does magic on L cameras and lenses but not digital. Using a collimated light sourse it shouldn't matter if she calibrates the lens.
I hope it works out......
don

 

[Ranma13]

Wouldn't that only apply to lenses that have rangefinder coupling though? When it's constrast detection instead, isn't it impossible to focus wrong because you will see the off focus and adjust for it?

 

[riccadonna]

I dont`t know your lens so it`s hard to tell. One thing could be a focus shift. Some fast lenses shift the focus as you stop down. Usually it`s irrelevant at something like f:5.6 as it`s DOF covers focus shift. Of course it only happens IF you life view focus at full opening and then stop down, which is quite impractical for moving targets. That`s why I mostly shoot with my old Noctilux at f:1. Of course it`s an issue shooting with rangefinder cameras. Last thing, I hope you shoot at least 1/100 or faster, especially moving people.

 

[Tom Caldwell]

Hey everyone, I've had the GXR for a while now with the Voigtlander 35/1.2 II, but I've had a pretty consistent problem with my setup. Out of all the pictures I've taken with it, nearly half of them have the focus set slightly off from the intended target, despite me verifying and re-verifying with mode 2 that I indeed have the correct object in focus. I'd chalk this up to an error on my part, except it happens often enough that I question whether if it's really me or not. For example, I went to E3 last week, and every picture I took of people, I made sure that I had the eyes in focus, but almost all the images ended up out of focus. I know the 35/1.2 is soft at f1.2, so I shot most of the shots at f1.4 or f2.0.

With an AF camera, I know that I can chalk this up to AF calibration alignment issues, but with a manual focus lens using focus peaking, is it even possible for the focus to be out of alignment? Your thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated.

Try setting MF for about 4x and use it. I have found that focus peaking not magnified might be hard to be precise. When I magnify the lcd I can usually make a small further precise adjustment. When I really want to nail a very precise point then 8x magnification is usually called for. I set Fn1 to magnify full screen and Fn2 to focus peaking on/off. I find Mode2 is easier for very precise focus.

Press-hold delete-key and the magnification factor can be adjusted on the fly.

I cannot see how the focus adjustment on the lens has much to do with it as whatever the sensor sees in focus is what the focus peaking shows up on the lcd. Even if the focus ring on the lens is off with the fairies.

I don't think that it is because the unmagnified screen is not correct it is just harder for the human eye to judge without the magnification. Of course if the hyper-focal has kicked in then it is less of an issue.

The offset is that it is easier to get your subject part focused at least on unmagnified than to attempt the whole focus issue resolved when the screen is magnified at start.

Tom

 

[agfa100]

Don't give up, I know it took me some time before I got more in focus then out of focus. I still have some trouble in very bright light even with the EVF. Just take more pictures.....

wbill

 

[Ranma13]

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I will try to get more time in with the camera. I also purchased another lens for it as well, so that should allow me to rule out the lens as a possible reason.

 

[agfa100]

I know the two lenses that are the best to focus are my 35mm f2.0, and 2.8 and any of my 50mm lenses 3.5, 2.0, 1.4. And make sure you follow Tom's instructions on using the fn2 with the magnifier set to +4, it really works quite well without using the magnifier and focus peaking it's very hard to nail it when shooting wide open.

wbill