GRDIII - Interval mode battery performance test

[odklizec]

This is a test of GRDIII battery performance in Interval mode. Tested both DB65 and older DB60. It's just a reaction on GX200 test done > here <.

GRDIII JPEG, infinity focus, all sounds OFF, LCD brightness set to 50%, freshly charged batteries.
Interval set to 10 minutes.

DB60 - 1150mAh
LCD ON

• - 19 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 10:59
  - last frame - 13:59
  - runtime 3:00 (max + 9 minutes)

LCD OFF

• - 24 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 9:09
  - last frame - 12:59
  - runtime 3:50 (max + 9 minutes)

DB65 - 1250mAh
LCD ON

• - 22 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 14:02
  - last frame - 17:32
  - runtime 3:30 (max + 9 minutes)

LCD OFF

• - 30 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 19:46
  - last frame - 00:16
  - runtime 4:50 (max + 9 minutes)

 

[odklizec]

Energizer CGAS005 (DB60 eq.) - 1150mAh
LCD ON

• - 20 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 18:49
  - last frame - 21:59
  - runtime 3:10 (max + 9 minutes)

LCD OFF

• - 25 frames (including first manually taken frame)
  - first frame - 10:40
  - last frame - 14:40
  - runtime 4:00 (max + 9 minutes)

This test was done with new Energizer battery. The extra frame and 10 minutes of run-time in comparison to DB60 results may be related to the fact the Energizer was never previously used. DB60 was over a year old battery. In addition, it seems that Energizer looses it's remaining power much quicker than genuine DB60. According of my experience, even after shutting the camera OFF (due to the low power), I can still turn it ON in playback mode and examine photos for few next minutes. With Energizer replacement battery, the camera either does not turn ON, or shuts down almost immediately after starting the Playback mode. So all in all, I would recommend to stick with genuine DB60 or DB65. And what's really bad, I experienced (at least three times) some sudden deaths with extended lens and no particular reason (even with fully charged battery!).

So all in all, I think it's better to stick with genuine Ricoh batteries.

 

[setvak]

Re: Interval mode battery performance test

Hi Pavel,

many thanks for sharing all of these tests. They indeed indicate that the best choice for timelapsing purposes is the original DB-65. The extra time these offer when timelapsing long series might be in some cases critical ... e.g. when shooting storm evolution from the very beginning, till its decay. I'll most likely order a pair of these before the next convective season here.

Just a note for the others: don't take these tests absolutely - the battery durability in the interval mode STRONGLY depends on the environmental temperature of the camera. A difference between about 20°C and zero is something like 25-30% less images you can take at low temperatures. Pavel, I guess that you have done your tests at room temperature, right?

Martin

 

[kinley]

I am a professional photographer and I have been using Ricoh over the last 15 years. When I was a teenager my father brought me a Ricoh camera when he came from one of his overseas trips. I really liked it and to be frank it was this camera which inspired me to choose photography as my profession. I have had the chance to use other cameras over the years and I firmly believe that when it comes to performance Ricoh is the best.

 

[marzum01]

Hi Pavel,

Thank you so much for sharing your detailed findings
I own a Sea&Sea DX-2G (which is essentially a rebranded Ricoh GX200 accompanied by an underwater housing) and shockingly it came with a third party chinese battery, courtesy of Sea&Sea (thanks S&S!)
I too found that the GX200 at a few occassions died with the lens extended, even with fully recharged battery. The only way to fix this was to remove the battery completely and reinstalled it, then restarted the camera
I still have a genuine DB-60 from my old GRD II camera (since sold). Voila the problem cannot be reproduced when using the genuine battery

Initially I suspected that this was because the third party battery had slightly differing physical dimensions and therefore might have wobbled or slipped out of place of the contacts. Quite unlikely, given the contacts have large surface area and there is a spring applying pressure to the battery in place. So after reading your post I too believe it may be due to something more sinister than that

So have decided today that will not spare any expense in order to get a genuine DB60... obviously will not be very pleased if the sudden death happens while underwater!

Kind regards
Mario

 

[odklizec]

Hi Mario and welcome on the board! I'm glad you fund this little test useful. Reliability of non-OEM parts is always questionable. You may find very good non-OEM parts but many of them (especially the very cheap items) are rubbish.

BTW, DB-60 is not the only option for your Sea&Sea camera. GX200 is compatible both with DB60 and DB65. So if you need maximum power, DB65 could be a very good option for you?

Please don't forget to post some Sea&Sea photos. There are not much Sea&Sea users around and any photos from it (especially the underwater photos) are greatly welcome! Enjoy the forum!

 

[nikiniki775]

I am a professional photographer and I have been using Ricoh over the last 15 years. When I was a teenager my father brought me a Ricoh camera when he came from one of his overseas trips. I really liked it and to be frank it was this camera which inspired me to choose photography as my profession. I have had the chance to use other cameras over the years and I firmly believe that when it comes to performance Ricoh is the best.

hmm thanks for sharing such a nice info dude..its a very clear and good idea . :geek: